History of meat consumption in Japan

Lore & Background

In 675 AD, Emperor Tenmu banned consumption of chicken, cows, dogs, horses, monkeys, and small fry fish between April and September, influenced by Buddhist and Shinto ideas. The ban did not mention deer or wild boar, the most commonly eaten meats. Subsequent rulers strengthened the ban, and occupations like slaughtering became stigmatized, carried out by hereditary classes known as eta. Despite this, mentions of eating wild boar and deer persisted from the 8th into the 16th century, centered in northern mountains but also in urban markets.

Western missionaries from Portugal and Spain arrived in the mid-16th century, increasing meat consumption among converts, especially in Kyushu. Toyotomi Hideyoshi later banned this practice. During the Edo period, meat was often referred to metaphorically, such as 'mountain whale' for boar. Tokugawa Tsunayoshi issued edicts prohibiting animal killing, but they were not widely obeyed. Cookbooks from the early Edo period included recipes for dogs, though these may have been remnants from earlier times.

After the Meiji Restoration, the government lifted the ban on eating meat in 1872, aiming to boost military power and Westernization. The first steamed beef restaurant opened in Yokohama in 1862. During the Sino-Japanese War, beef became scarce for civilians, making pork cheaper and more popular, leading to dishes like tonkatsu. Post-World War II, meat consumption increased more than seven-fold, and by 2007 household meat consumption surpassed fresh fish consumption.

Reader's Guide

The history of meat consumption in Japan illustrates how religious, political, and cultural forces shaped dietary practices over centuries. Emperor Tenmu's 675 AD ban, rooted in Buddhist and Shinto ideas, stigmatized meat-eating and relegated slaughter to outcast classes. Yet exceptions for deer and wild boar allowed limited consumption to persist, especially in mountainous regions. The arrival of Western missionaries in the mid-16th century introduced new meat-eating practices, particularly in Kyushu, but these were later suppressed. The Meiji Restoration marked a dramatic shift: the government actively promoted meat-eating as a symbol of civilization and Westernization, lifting bans in 1872 and opening restaurants in port cities. This rapid uptake was possible because of existing customs. Regional differences remain strong—Kansai favors beef, Kantō pork, Hokkaido mutton, and Okinawa pork and goat—reflecting historical trade, geography, and foreign influence. The post-war surge in meat consumption eventually surpassed fish, altering Japan's traditional diet. Understanding this history reveals how deeply food choices are intertwined with social hierarchy, religion, and national identity.

Did You Know?

• Emperor Tenmu's 675 AD ban on meat did not include deer or wild boar, the two most commonly eaten meats in Japan.
• During the Edo period, red meat was metaphorically called 'winter peony' and meat more broadly 'mountain whale'.
• The first steamed beef restaurant in Japan opened in 1862 in Irifune-cho, a predominantly foreign part of Yokohama.
• Okinawa Prefecture is one of the few places in Japan where goat meat is part of the traditional food culture, served as soup or sashimi.